Warbonnet Fan

Posted - 06/14/2005 :  00:50:18  Show Profile  Email Poster  Visit Warbonnet Fan's Homepage  Reply with Quote
OK, the new F3s arrrived...here's a side-by-side comparison with Kato's 1996 release. Please bear in mind, there have been minor revisions made by Kato for their most recent F3 release, but I didn't have the newer loco to compare. Also, the Katos have a bit of advantage (weathering, added wipers, silver Kato couplers instead of the big MTs on the pilots, Unimate couplers between the units).

My rather crude addition of a second headlight underscores the fact the Katos were built with just one headlight, which is how the first units arrived on the Santa Fe. Within months, the second headlight was added by the shops.

Okay, here are the photos: IM is always on the left and/or below, Kato on the right and/or top. Gentlemen, pull down your Optivisors and let's see how they compare!



Both models have the extended parabola (red headress)used in the early F3 deliveries to the Santa Fe.



Both are great looking units. The new IMs are a brighter red, which look more accurate for the Santa Fe warbonnet. Kato's truck relief is slightly better, with superior brake cylinder and brake hanger relief. The IM trucks are painted, which is a huge plus for prototypes with silver trucks, like the ATSF and WP. Marty told me they were pulling their hair out figuring out how to get the paint to adhere to the plastic sideframes, but image-conscious roads like the Santa Fe kept their sideframes fresh and bright...a nice touch very much worth the extra effort!

The IM steps are finer, and the yellow is a bit brighter shade than the mustard-yellow on the Katos. The end of the stripe below the warbonnet's red 'headress' parabola should be round like the IM units, not slightly pointed as on the Kato units.



The added detail on the IMs sets them off well, but examining these photos gave me a new respect for Kato's die work. The Kato glazing is a better finish, but is recessed slightly behind the window sill, where the IM glass is flush. The disadvantage with the IMs is that you see the red dash behind the glass, where the Katos have no dash...making their window openings completely dark. The fix is to remove the glass and paint the dash green, which takes away the 'squinting' appearance of the IM windshields. I did this with my FTs, and it paid off, but it's a bit tricky to pull of. Too bad they don't paint the dash green!



The horns on the IM units both had minor deformities, the Kato horns are cleaner and better represented. I love the separate handrails on the IM units, and the overall finish is crisper. Note how clean the yellow/red mask is on the top of the nose on the IM unit, compared to the Kato. Outstanding!



The Katos have slightly crisper end detail, not that you see it much! Body mounted couplers on the IMs are a huge plus.



The radiator grill award goes to Kato. Both look good, but for reasons explained in later photos, the IM fans are a bit, well, odd. Both have good relief. There is a general rough texture to parts of the IM tooling that is perhaps due to the CAD rapid prototyping process, or perhaps some other reason (I am not a manufacturing engineer). The Kato surfaces are all silkly smooth, with wonderful tooling.



This shot shows how fine the rivet detail is on the roof and sides compared to Kato's tooling. You have to really look to see them, and the light has to be just so. While they are harder to see, they are more realistic in my opinion...you wouldn't notice rivet detail on a locomotive when standing 50 feet away from it!

IM's steam generator looks more like what I am used to seeing on my prototype than the Kato steam generators; also, IM A units don't have them (just like the prototype), unlike Kato's - another plus.



The IM fan shrouds have very subtle facets to them rather than being perfectly round...probably an artifact betraying the use of rapid prototyping CAD technology. Computers hate small, perfect curves...it's only noticable when you really examine it closely under extreme magnification, but they should be round!



Here's the 'money shot' IMHO: comparison of side grill detail, relief behind the grills, and rivet detail. IM wins here hands down. Very nice effect, which could be further enhanced with some washes to darken the recessed areas a bit.


Both units run very well. In a back-to-back drawbar pull contest (standard DC, spanning block gap) it was pretty much a draw (pun intended). With two MRC Controlmaster 20 power packs, IM won with one power pack, and it was a stalemate stall over the gap with the other pack.

At 6v, the IMs were rolling along close to a scale 50 mph drawing about 320 milliamps. At 6 v, the Katos moved at about 40 mph drawing over 500 milliamps, which pegged the ammeter.

The Intermountain units are extremely smooth and quiet, better than the FTs. Someone has done their homework here! One B unit was noteiceably slower than the other three, but perhaps with break-in they will average out closer. The body mounted couplers work great, but coupling distance is too far between units. I will use Unimates to solve this, and look forward to the day when perhaps we can buy new locomotives without having to screw around with their couplers! :eek:

My Katos, which have served well, are headed to a new home in Sydney...and the IM F3s are pulling my passenger trains as of tonight. Both are excellent locomotives, I would say the IM tips the scale in overall comparisons, but the Katos are really excellent locomotives in their own right. Everyone has their preferences, I hope this has been an objective and informative review. ;)

- Verne Niner
See my layout here: http://members.cox.net/vgniner/home.html

Country: USA | Posts: 315
Author Topic: Intermountain F3 / Kato F3 Faceoff - NSF 56K
Warbonnet-Fan
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OK, as promised, I removed the bodyshell to snoop inside a bit. Let's fix that high-rider of a body shell!

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The shell is easily removed by gently spreading the sides (after removing the pilot coupler on A units, of course). This is a new mechanism from the FT, with Atlas trucks.

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Note the interesting plastic inset for the cab, makes adding a crew very easy. Inset is a press fit into the frame. LEDs are very yellow, they should be whiter IMHO.

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Testing the hypothesis that the screws holding the PC board are protruding above the frame, I used a straightedge on both. Both are below the top of the frame. Nope, that's not it.

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Looking at the underside of the shell, notice the two thin guides on each side. These are new, the FTs didn't have them. The slide into matching grooves in the frame, with a point where the shell is stopped from coming down any lower. Aha! We are on the trail, Watson!

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The clearance between the stirrups and the front and rear truck frames is very tight...perhaps the shells were set a bit higher to provide clearance for tighter radius curves! Wouldn't be the first time concessions were made for tight curves!

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Using a small sanding drum in my motor tool, I sanded down the guides. I also thinned down the stirrups about 1/3 of their depth, to give the trucks just a bit more room if necessary.

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Success! Unit on the left is the one with the lowered shell, in case you cannot see the difference (it is subtle, but noticeable). Got about 4 scale inches lower, with about 15 minutes work. Next one will take less than 10, now that I know what to do.

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Lowered shell doesn't affect coupler height, comes out just right on the MT gauge.

I also lowered the fuel tank...with a spacer made of balsa or styrene, it is easy to drop it to just above the rails. You can't use the snap on tabs, I would remove them and just glue the tank to the spacer to the frame. The tanks will need some sanding and touch up paint to smooth the sides, and remove the mold parting lines.

I can't wait to detail these beauties, but other priorities must come first right now...hope this helps explain a bit of what's under the hood!


- Verne Niner
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See my layout here: http://members.cox.net/vgniner/home.html

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